In the music video of K-pop group EXID’s tenth-anniversary album title track “Fire,” Hani’s box braid hairstyle was evidently blurred out. Their comeback announcement has left many fans in anticipation until the teaser for the music video ignited controversy on social media as viewers called out for cultural appropriation. As the box braided hairstyle is specific to the African-American community, using it carelessly in the music video has stirred such controversy. In response, the company decided to blur out her hair; however, there were mixed reactions to the company’s decision as some expressed approval while others deemed it unsatisfactory.
This incident was not the first time Korean entertainment was criticized for cultural appropriation. Cultural appropriation refers to the unrecognized or unfitting adoption of customs or ideas of one group or society by a member of another group or society that is oftentimes the majority. There are still ongoing debates regarding what determines the difference between cultural appropriation and cultural appreciation.
Hla Yin Min, a student from Tulane University in the United States, highlighted that respect is the main factor that distinguishes whether it is merely an act of using or appropriating another culture.
“I personally think it is fine for K-pop idols to use or borrow ideas from a different culture, but it is extremely important to be respectful of it and use it in an appropriate way,” Min said.
Phaebe Ouyang, a student from Nanyang Technological University in Singapore, stressed that it is critical that cases where K-pop idols display cultural appropriation should be brought to the attention. She contended that those who are in charge of the backend of the idol industry should not blindly select elements of other cultures under the mere name of fashion or trend.
“It is irresponsible to just avoid the problem by separating the entertainment industry with cultural appropriation or turning a blind eye towards it,” Ouyang said. “Especially, as the K-pop sensation is getting more attention globally, I think it is the perfect time for the industry to grow and learn how to create good entertainment while respecting others’ culture.”
Professor David Tizzard, a professor from Seoul Women’s University, explained that there is no single factor that can truly determine cultural appropriation or appreciation. One factor that is often mentioned is the play of power dynamics when an evidently more powerful culture is appropriating a less powerful culture for their own profit and benefit.
In modern context, Professor Tizzard pointed out that the discussion of cultural appropriation has shifted significantly with the advent of social media and recognition of intersectionality. It is not just the topic of cultural appropriation that is bringing attention in the K-pop industry, but the environment where individuals take identity and culture more seriously.
Professor Tizzard observed that there has been a growing number of Korean entertainment companies that are more sensitive to international demands regarding cultural and gender sensitivity. However, he addressed that the companies’ decisions are not necessarily for moral reasons.
“I think that entertainment companies have decided that if they are more aware of cultural appropriation, there would be less criticism and more profit,” Professor Tizzard said. “The question is could it be that this desire for a capitalist profit, a complete disregard for cultural sensitivity, and focus on getting the maximum audience actually result in more culturally sensitive products and then more.”
According to Professor Tizzard, K-pop has always been a form of music that has borrowed or adopted elements from other cultures. For instance, Seo Taiji and Boys’s “Nan Arayo” is a mixture of Japanese and American music, yet one of the major hit songs that has been known to give birth to K-pop.
“K-pop has always had this multiculturalism within it,” Professor Tizzard said. “There is nothing really Korean about K-pop if you think about it. If K-pop begins to remove elements of different cultures, it might lose the very thing that made it K-pop in the first place.”